Course Syllabus

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Course Syllabus:

 

Santa Ana College Spring 2018

Fashion Design and Merchandising

FDM-107-49950 Custom Tailoring Lecture and Lab-9:00 to 1:10 pm Building T-210

Instructor: Laura Bonsall
Email: bonsall_laura@sac.edu

SAC Mission Statement:

Santa Ana College inspires, transforms, and empowers a diverse community of learners.

Syllabus

Course Description: Advanced sewing students will apply traditional tailoring techniques in completing a lined suit or coat, including hand pad stitching and edge taping. Suggested preparation: Design Merchandising 106

Student Learning Outcomes:

The student will be able to apply individual design criteria, choose appropriate fabrics and support materials and create a tailored jacket or coat using custom tailoring techniques featuring hand padding and taping. The Student will also be able to create a companion garment for the tailored garment.

Class Policies: No food or drink in the lab.
Please turn off your cell phone in class.

Late assignment are not accepted.

Text: Tailoring Techniques for Fashion by Milva Fiorella Di Lorenzo ISBN: 978-1-56367-730-4

Materials:

Jacket Pattern or Suit pattern or Coat pattern. Preferably a Vogue Claire Shaeffer pattern Fabric, notions and tailoring supplies to construct the jacket pattern
Berina bobbins and needles (available in the bookstore)
For Notebook: 1” 3-ring binder, sheet protectors, 1 yard of Wool or Wool Blend fabric Sewing tools- tape measure, seam ripper, straight pins, pin cushion, fabric shears, hand sewing needles, marking tools, 18” clear plastic ruler, and tool box.

Week and date

Topics

Assignments

1 2/9

Overview of course and syllabus Supplies and Measurements Choosing a Pattern
History of Tailoring

Measurements
Shop fabric, notions and pattern (Due 2/23)

Read Chaps. 1, 2, 3

02/16/18

No School

2 2/23

A Tailoring Technique Overview Comparison paper assigned Due 5/4

Read Chap 4 and 5

3 3/2

Using the Pattern and Creating a Jacket Mock-up Hand Sewing Samples 9-15

Mock-up complete and ready for fitting
Complete Samples
Read Chap 6

4 3/9

Fitting and Pattern Adjustments

Complete Adjustments

5 3/16

Cutting the Wool and Thread Tracing
Pocket Samples and Buttonhole Samples 2-7

Complete pattern cutting and thread tracing
Complete Samples

6 3/23

Setting Pockets and Buttonholes in Jacket Notebook Samples 1 and 8

Complete all Pockets and Buttonholes
Complete Samples
Read Chap 7,10, 11

03/30/18

No School

04/06/18

No School

7 4/13

Creating the Chest Front with the Interfacing Layers Pad Stitching and Seam Taping
Sewing Notebook Due

Chest fronts and stitching completed

8 4/20

Pressing how to
Seaming the Jacket Together

Jacket seaming completed

9 4/27

Sleeves- Armhole Preparation, Shoulder Pads, Wigan and Setting the Sleeves

Complete sleeves and pin/baste into jacket

10 5/4

The Under collar-Preparation, Pad Stitching and Baste on Jacket

Complete collar assembly Test fit and alter as needed

11 5/11

The Lining of the Jacket

Comparison Paper due

Assemble Lining

12 5/18

Set Sleeves, Hem with Vents, Attach Lining Jacket Body Lining Attached
Sleeve Headers

Complete sleeves Lining completed

13 5/25

Top collar Setting
Buttons, Vents and Hemming Final Pressing

Top Collar completed
Complete Buttons, vents, hemming and pressing

14 6/1

Class Critique

Jacket and Garment due at beginning of class

Grading Scale:

Notebook of 15 samples 120 pts 20%
Weekly Progress Checks (10 pts) 100 pts 17% 100-90% A

Tailored Garment Matching Garment Comparison Paper Final Exam

200 pts 34% 100 pts 17% 25 pts 4% 50 pts 8% 595 pts

89-80% B 79-70% C 69-60% D 59-0% F

Grades are based on a simple point accumulation. To determine you grade, simple divide the points possible into your point accumulation to find the percentage. Check you percentage against the scale above.

Homework:

The student is expected to work on the current assignments both during class time and as homework. Failure to do so will result in poor grades and a poor outcome overall in this class.

Late Assignments:

Late assignments will not be accepted. Assignments are only accepted on the due date. If extenuating circumstances occur, please contact me so I can advise you further in any actions to be taken.

Attendance:

You are expected to attend all classes for the complete class time. A student may not attend a course that he/she is not enrolled including after being dropped from enrollment.
It is the student's responsibility to contact the instructor if absent due to illness or extenuating circumstances. Students are responsible for obtaining notes and assignment handouts form other students when absent, tardy or leaving early.

In the event of illness or extenuating circumstances when an assignment is due, please send your classwork with another student so the assignment arrives on time. If this is not possible, you must create a paper trail as to why you could not be in class, i.e. a doctor's note detailing you were ill on the date of the missed class. I will only accept class work after the due date with extenuating paperwork.
In the event that you need to withdraw, you are responsible for dropping the class by the appropriate deadline otherwise you will receive a failing grade.

Academic Honesty Policy:

From 2014/2015 SAC Catalog, page 20: Students at Santa Ana College are expected to be honest and forthright in their academic endeavors. To falsify the results of one's research, to steal the words or ideas of another, or to cheat on an examination, corrupts the essential process by which knowledge is advanced. Academic dishonesty is seen as an intenional act of fraud, in which a student seeks to clain credit for the work or efforts of another without authorization, or uses unauthorized materials or fabricated information in any academic excerise. As institutions, we also consider academic dishonesty to include forgery of academic documents, intentionally impeding or damagingthe academic work of others, assisting other students in acts of dishonesty or coercing students into acts of didhonesty.

Academic Accommodation Statement:

A student with a disability, who would like to request an academic accommodation, is responible for identifying herself/himself to the instructor and to the Diabled Student Programs and Services (DSPS). To make arrangements for academic accommodations, contact the Diabled Student Office in Johnson Center, U-103, or phone (714) 564-6264, TTY (714) 564-6284 for a referral to the appropiate DSPS Department.

FDM-107 Custom Tailoring Sewing Sample Notebook 120 Points

Table of Contents

Name:____________________________________________________Date:__________________

Sample#

Sewing Sample

Points Possible:

Points Earned:

Comments:

1

Interfacing Samples

5

2

Bound Buttonhole (5 line)

10

3

Bound Buttonhole (Butterfly)

10

4

Pocket- Welt bound

10

5

Pocket- Double Welt bound

10

6

Pocket- Double Welt with Flap

10

7

Pocket- Curved Corded Welt

10

8

Lapel- Pad
Stitching and Taping

10

9

Diagonal Basting

5

10

Even Basting

5

11

Tailor’s Tacks

5

12

Uneven Basting

5

13

Catch stitch

5

14

Pick Stitch

5

15

Blind hem

5

Presentation

10

Total

120

FDM-107 Custom Tailoring
Sewn Garment Rubric Project:__________________

Name:_________________________________________________________________ Date:___________

Assignment: To cut from a commercial pattern, sew as per the instructions of the pattern and complete a garment as per the class parameters assigned to the project. Total score: _________/100 Points

Criteria

10-9 Accomplished

8-7 Competence

6-5 Developing

4-0 Introductory

Score

Presentation

Garment is complete, hung on hanger, and meets specific requirements as outlined by instructor.

Garment is complete, requirements are
partially addressed with at least one achieved. Garment is on a hanger.

Garment requirements are addressed but not entirely fulfilled. Garment is incomplete on the hanger with sloppy workmanship.

None of the garment requirements are completely addressed or specific parameters met.

Pressing

Garment is pressed without creases.

Pressing is completed but not consistant.

Garment is incorrectly pressed.

Garment is unpressed.

Cutting

Cutting is clean and accurate with accurate grain lines. Notches are correctly marked.

Cutting is some what accurate with lengthwise and crosswise maintained. Notches are inconsistant.

Cutting lacks quality. Notches are inaccurate.

Overall cutting is incorrect.

Fusing/ Interfacings

All pattern pieces that
require fusible have it applied cleanly and accurately.

Fusible is applied to most areas that require it cleanly.

Fusible is applied to some areas that are required although not accurately.

Fusible is not present.

Stylelines and Seams

Stylelines and side seams feature the correct seam allowance and line up as per the notches.

Stylelines, and side seams requirements are partially addressed with at least two achieved. Notch requirements are skillful in application.

Most stylelines and side seams are not straight with some inaccurate seam allowance. Notches are used some what skillfully.

Style lines and side seams are incorrectly sewn with inaccurate seam allowance or not present.

Closures and Openings

The closures are applied with percision and are appropriate to the garment. Openings are finished so they lay flat and work properly.

The closures are applied but not accurrately or with percision. Openings work but do not lay flat.

The closures are incorrectly applied. Openings do not work or do not line up.

The closures are missing and the openings are not finished and do not work.

Collar Assembly and Waist Assembly

The collar and waistband are sewn with percision, understitched, attached and mounted as per the instructor's requirements .

The collar and waistband assembly is sewn correctly but attachment is incorrectly placed and lacks quality.

The collar and waistband assembly is incorrectly sewn and attached without quality.

The collar and waistband assembly is unfinished, poorly executed or not present.

Sleeve Assembly

The placket, sleeves, shirring, cuff, sleeve cap are executed with precision as per the notches and instructor's requirements

The sleeve assembly is correctly sewn but some requirements lack quality.

The sleeve assembly is incorrectly sewn, lacks quality and is incorrectly attached without regard to the requirements.

The sleeve assembly is unfinished, poorly executed or not present.

Topstitching, pockets, and details

All required topstitching,pockets and details are skillfully placed and executed.

The topstitching, pockets and details are complete although not skillfully placed.

Topstitching, pockets and details are inaccurately placed or missing.

The topstitching, pockets and details are missing or poorly executed.

Santa Ana College
Comparision Paper of the Jacket Bonsall
25 Points

Objective: Compare a purchased jacket from your wardrobe or another’s wardrobe to the jacket built in class. Use comparible Jackets that are both tailored with interfacing, similar style lines and construction. Write a 2-3 page paper answering the questions below.

Describe and contrast the fabrics used in both jackets. How does the fabric contribute to how each jacket tailors?
Describe the style lines of both jackets. Example: Where do the seams line up on the body? Describe the fit of each jacket. Do they flatter you? Did you alter the jacket pattern?

Discuss the time you spent in the jacket construction.
Discuss the cost of both jackets.
Discuss the interior construction on both jackets. Example: Type of interfacing, seam allowances, seam finishes, hem allowance, closures, interfacings and any additional supplies or finishes on either jacket. Conclude with comparing the cost, fit and style. Which is a better deal?
Include pictures of both jackets.

Possible points

Points

Notes

Fabric contrast

3

Style line contrast

3

Fit

3

Construction

4

Cost

3

Interior Construction

3

Conclusion

3

Photos

3

Total

25

FDM-107 Custom Tailoring
Sewn Jacket Rubric Project:__________________

Name:_________________________________________________________________ Date:___________

Assignment: To cut from a commercial jacket pattern, sew as per the instructions of the pattern and complete a garment as per the class parameters assigned to the project. Total Points x 2 = _____________/200

Criteria

10-9 Accomplished

8-7 Competence

6-5 Developing

4-0 Introductory

Score

Presentation and Fit

Jacket is complete, hung on a hanger and meets specific requirements outlined by the instructor. The jacket fits with correct ease and molds to the body with correct placement of seams and details.

Jacket is complete, requirements are partially addressed with at least one achieved. Jacketis on a hanger. The jacket fits but does not hang with the correct ease or placement of seam details.

Jacket requirements are addressed but not entirely fulfilled. Jacket is incomplete on the hanger with sloppy workmanship. The jacket has ill placed details and pulls or sags on the body creating improper fit.

None of the Jacket requirements are completely addressed or specific parameters met. The jacket does not fit, is without proper ease and placement of details.

Pressing

Jacket is pressed and molded using proper tailoring technique.

Jacket Pressing is completed but not consistant.

Jacket is incorrectly pressed.

Jacket is unpressed.

Cutting

Cutting is clean and accurate with appropriate grain and notches

Cutting is somewhat inaccurate with the lengthwise and maintained. Notches are inconsistant.

Cutting lacks quality. Notches are inaccurate.

Overall cutting is incorrect.

Pockets and Buttonholes

Pockets and buttonholes are supported and are smoothly and accurately sewn.

Pockets and buttonholes are supported but are not accurately sewn.

Pockets and buttonholes are unsupported and slopply sewn.

Pockets and buttonholes are unsewn or unfinished or unsupported.

Interfacing and Taping the roll line and lapel

All interfacing layers are present with taping and smoothly presented. Hand and machine stitching is accurately done.

Interfacing, hand stitching and taping are present but not consistant.

Interfacing, hand stitching and taping are inaccurate.

Interfacing, handstitching or taping are incorrect or missing.

Style lines and Seams

All Style lines and seams feature the correct seam allowance and line up as per the notches.

Style lines and seam requirements are partially addressed with at least two achieved.

Most style lines and seams are not straight with some inaccurate seam allowance.

Styleines and seams are inaccurately sewn and contribute to an ill fitting outcome.

Lining

The lining is sewn correctly with details and is expertly attached to the body of the jacket. It hangs with percision.

The lining is sewn and attached but craftmanship is not consistant.

The lining is present but inaccurately sewn and attached.

The lining is not present.

Collar Assembly

The collar is interfaced, sewn to the jacket and facing and lays properly on the neckline.

The collar is interfaced and sewn but does not lay with percision on the neckline.

The collar lacks interfacing or pad stitching and does not lay correctly.

Collar is missing, unfinished or incorrectly applied.

Sleeve Assembly

The sleeves are properly supported, finished and hemmed. The vents face the correct direction and function properly.

The sleeves are correctly sewn and attached but workmanship is not consistant.

The sleeves are attached but sewing is inaccurate. The sleeves do not hang correctly.

Sleeves are unsewn , unfinished or missing.

Hemming, Wigan and Vents

Hemming is hand stitched with wigan applied correctly. Vents hang smoothly and with precision.

Hemming, wigan and vents are applied but workmanship is not consistant.

Hemming, wigan and vents are sewn incorrectly.

Hemming, Wigan or vents are unsewn or missing.

Comments:

Jacket Construction Steps We Will Use This Semester

The Basic Steps:

Your Notes:

1. Create Mock-up and fit with shoulder pad, check grain lines, CF, roll line and break point marked, buttonholes and pocket placement marked. Fit it.

2. Adjustments as needed.

3. Cut it in wool- Thread trace seams, CF, roll line, breakpoint, pockets, buttonholes. Use Tailor Tacks

4. Sew intersecting seams. Sew in pockets. Sew Bound buttonholes. Back each with fusible interfacing for support.

5. Cut Hymo, Shoulder piece- thread trace. Assemble the chest front and add taping to hymo to seam line. Trim hymo seam allowance to tape.
Baste chest front to wool, use ham or shape to attach. Stitch edge tape to seam allowance of jacket. Stitch roll line with tape. Pad stitch lapels.

6. Sew all other seams of jacket. Stay stitch neckline. Add stabilizer to upper back jacket. Tape back armhole and ease in place, Tack shoulder pads in place between hymo and shoulder piece.

7. Sew or fuse sleeve wigan to sleeve pieces. Sew back sleeve seam and press open. Baste up hem. Sew in ease stitches in cap, steam, pin in coat.

8. Assemble undercollar, sew CB. Cut hymo on bias with no seam allowance. Thread trace roll line and shoulder seams. Pad stitch hymo to collar. Baste to jacket. Try on the coat, make adjustments.

9. Cut lining out using pinking shears if available and assemble. Press seams one way not open. Assemble sleeves but do not attach to body.

10. Attach wool facings to jacket, grade seam allowances, turn and press. Sew from lapel notch to hem. Back facing can be attached at shoulders to front facing if applicable.

11. Sleeves- on lining, stay stitch undersleeve armhole, clip and press under. Ease stitch sleeve lining caps. Complete all sleeve vents and CB vents. Tack sleeve linings to sleeves along seams. Turn lining at wrist and blind hem in place. Set the sleeves in jacket, wool only. If the pad is in, press SA toward sleeve, if not press armhole open. Place and sew sleeve header in place.

12. Hand sew body lining to armhole. Blind stitch sleeve lining to armhole. Baste lining or wool facing to neckline of jacket. Sew Topcollar to undercollar with hand blanket stitches, no seam allowance on the undercollar. Sew by hand the topcollar to the jacket neckline. Trim and press cafefully. Blanket stitch the undercollar to the neckseam. Careful that it doesn’t show.

13. Hem the jacket and press all vents in place, hand stitch. Blindstitch the lining to the jacket keeping it loose so there will be not pulling. Add handsewn buttonholes and buttons to sleeves and CF. Press carefully then take jacket to the drycleaner for a final press. Done.

 

Meet Your Instructor:  Laura Bonsall

 

Course Description: 

Advanced sewing students will apply traditional tailoring techniques in completing a lined suit or coat, including hand pad stitching and edge taping. Suggested preparation: Design Merchandising 106

Textbook Information:

Tailoring Techniques for Fashion by Milva Fiorella Di Lorenzo

ISBN: 978-1-56367-730-4

Additional Course Information:  [Enter any additional Course Information]
Course Learning Objectives:  [Enter Course Learning Objectives]
Student Learning Objectives:

The student will be able to apply individual design criteria, choose appropriate fabrics and support materials and create a tailored jacket or coat using custom tailoring techniques featuring hand padding and taping. The Student will also be able to create a companion garment for the tailored garment.

Course Summary:

Course Summary
Date Details Due